Thursday, September 27, 2007

The Trip West



On Wednesday September 26th the movers came, and it took 5 people (2 were crating my TV) less then 3 hours to pack and move out all 75 tagged items of stuff. I saw and said goodbye to many friends, including going to Mike Ching's birthday, before heading back to my home in Brookline for the last time.

Day 1: Brookline, MA - Bedford, MA (32 miles)

My first day on the road, I just headed up to my friend Phoebe Shen's house for a day of hanging out before the real driving begins.



It was so nice to see Natalie in the tie-dye I made for her at Camp Blue, play ultimate with Phoebe, and just relax for a day with not very much to do. I needed this to gear up for the big drive.



Day 2: Bedford, MA - Niagara Falls, NY (470 miles)



This was my first big day of driving. I headed out along the Mass Pike, and just kept going on 90 through New York. After many hours, I stopped in Seneca Fall, thinking it would be nice to see the birthplace of American Women's Rights. It was interesting to see the now very small town, that once was the center of very forward thinking. I cannot help but think that the world has changed a lot since that time, but yet many women are still in a similar state.



Then I headed onto my first destination, Niagara Falls. I had never been and wanted to see the falls. It was nice to just be a tourist for the evening. I went on the Maid of the Mist tour, the Caves of the Wind, and then after checking into a hotel, I walked to Canada! It was cool to walk across a bridge into Canada, and this time I remembered my passport. In Canada, I rode the big Ferris wheel, went to the top of the space needle, and watched fireworks! Yes, Canada put on fireworks on Friday nights, so I got to enjoy them over the lit falls, before walking back to the United States and sleep.





Day 3: Niagara Fall, NY - Benton Harbor, MI (450 miles)

The next morning, I went to see the International Kite Festival, before making my trip west into a cross-continent journey by driving through Ontario to Michigan. This time at the boarder, they did not even look at my passport or any ID while questioning me as I passed.



Michigan was lovely, with more trees then I expected. I think I have only seen the airport in Detroit before, so it was great to see more of the countryside. I stopped in Ann Arbor for late lunch, and then headed out to Benton Harbor, MI on Lake Michigan for the night.



There were just so many trees up until this point on my trip. The freeways were lined with trees, which are really my strongest association with the east.

Day 4: Benton Harbor, MI - Galesburg, IL (270 miles)



Then next morning I headed out to Indiana and the Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore, before heading out to Galesburg, IL, my mom's hometown.



Before meeting up with the Bengtson's (my mom's cousin), I went to my mom's home from growing up. The current owners gave me a tour and told stories about their memories of my grandfather. It was nice to see where she grew up and the house her family built.



I then met Jan Bengtson for dinner before heading out to his and his wife Darlene’s home on Lake Bracken.

Day 5: Galesburg, IL

In the morning Jan fed the fish in the lake and after breakfast we headed out on an exploration. First off was the home of Carl Sandburg, a place my grandfather helped to restore. Then we headed to First Lutheran, where my mom and aunt, and all the Galesburg relatives were confirmed.



Jan's mom made the relief over the entry. Back in the day, there was a great schism, when the English service people broke away and created their own Lutheran church across the street. First Lutheran remained a Swedish speaking church until after WWI. It seems lots of immigrants in the past have held onto their home languages, and my great grandmother Emma never fully learned English.



We then went out to the Cemetery to see the gravestones and on the way back saw schools and homes that great-grandfather John built. Back in the day he also built a home for his bride Emma, and it was just after they were married that he brought her home to his finished and fully furnished place that he had been making on his free Saturday afternoons.

We then picked up cousin Peggy and went out to Bishop Hill for the good Swedish meatballs and Swedish rye bread. It was a great meal. Darlene then humored me and we went up to Moline to visit the John Deere museum. It was great to see all the big tractors and farm equipment. I was really in the middle of farmland, with corn, soy, and some wheat, as far as you could see.



While in Galesburg, we watched the trains, and headed out to see the hump. According to Jan, humping is for the morning.

It was warm enough, so in the early evening, we took the pontoon boat on Lake Bracken. It was fun to drive around outside.



Day 6: Galesburg, IL - Wall, SD (800 miles)

This was my major day of driving. I headed out at dawn, and then drove for what seemed like forever. Iowa has farms; and after Des Moines, it had rain. It just poured until I made it to South Dakota.



In South Dakota, I went by the corn palace and then drove west some more, coming to the Badlands, just as the sun was setting. Being in the wide-open spaces and seeing the cool structure of the Badlands, made me feel like I was home, I was finally in the West. The east had trees, the Midwest had corn, and the west had big sky. I finally felt like I was home.



I spent the night in Wall, SD, exhausted after such a long drive, and a bit shook up after a deer ran into the back of my car as I was leaving the Badlands (car, deer, and me, all just fine). I slept well.



Day 7: Wall, SD - Boulder, CO (460 miles)

I had breakfast at the famous Wall Drug, before heading out to see Mt. Rushmore.



After a quick stop there, I went down to Crazy Horse. This was an awesome monument. I took the bus tour (and was the only person on it) and enjoyed just checking out the site. I think growing up in California, I was just not really aware of how many tribes of Native Americans there are in the US. The east coast has towns and places named for tribes, the tribes are all over the middle of the country, but I am just starting to glimpse the diversity of tribes.





Then I drove through Wind Cave National Park on my way to Hot Springs, SD and the Mammoth Site. It was great to see the archeology pit and learn more about the great mammals that used to roam the Americas. I really enjoyed the Black Hills and think they are a great American treasure.

I continued south though Wyoming. I loved the cottonwoods that were all turning yellow along the rivers, before making it to my mom's sister’s home in Boulder, CO.



Day 8: Boulder, CO

It was a great day of rest with Aunt Francie. After her Chinese class, we walked down to the mall, checked out her paining at her temple and enjoyed a sunny warm day. The ice cream truck even came by the house while I was sitting on the porch and reading.



That night we went to a movie, the Boys of Baraka. It was a sad look at how the public schools and families are failing. I am lucky for my family and my education.

Day 9: My Birthday in Boulder, CO

Today I turned 33 and had another lovely day in Boulder. It was nice to not drive at all. I went for a walk up on Chautauqua in the morning. I then had lunch with my Uncle Walter down in town.



During the afternoon Francie and I baked me a cake, White Cake, Lemon Curd filling, and butter cream frosting. Yummy.

That night, my friend Kari, another IBM alum, and mom's cousin Sally and her husband came up to Boulder for a family dinner. It was great to catch up with Kari and see Sally.



It was a good birthday.

Day 10: Boulder, CO - Galisteo, NM (425 miles)



After a pancake breakfast, I continued my drive south on 25, until I could not take the traffic anymore. Not since Detroit had I dealt with so many cars. So, I left the interstate for a scenic byway that took me up through Taos. Taos had a wool fair going on. Seeing all the wool made me wish I knew anything about knitting.



In the evening, I made it to Galisteo and my great aunt Moira's home on The Hill. This was the one point of overlap with my Trip East.




Day 11: Galisteo, NM

Today was Moira's daughters wedding. After setting up her backyard, I went out with Frank (the groom) and the best man, on an exploration of the local hogsback and the petroglyphs.



Tersh climbing a tree to hang lights.



The bride and groom.



Bride's brothers.



Ant and Me.

The wedding was just lovely, and then we had a party with the Frank's family, and I got to spend a lot of time with Tilly's brothers.The best part of hanging out was hearing all the stories from Moira about my grandmother Eddie. She may have been 8 years younger, but she had many good things to say about grandma.

Day 12: Galisteo, NM - Cortez, CO (300 miles)

After breakfast with Moira, I headed up to the Colorado Plateau and Cortez, CO. I was going to see Vince and Nancy Lee from my Peru trip. They have a home on the edge of the Canyons of the Ancients.



After my arrival, Nancy and I went into town for her appointments, and I had a wonderful lunch at Let it Grow, a recommendation from the Maid of Honor at the wedding.

Back at the ranch, Vince showed me around, taught me about the Pueblo people (I, II, and III), and showed me his excavations of a Pueblo II kiva.



It was nice to see them and their beautiful home.

Day 13: Cortez, CO - Moab, UT (150 miles, via Hovenweep)

In the morning, I continued on Avenue G toward Hovenweep. Here I bought my National Parks pass, and walked around the Pueblo III site.



After Hovenweep, I headed up to Moab, UT. I loved seeing the Lasal Mountains as I headed into town. After checking into a hotel, I went out to Arches National Park. I think the southwest adds to the vocabulary of beautiful. It was just great to see all the huge natural sandstone structures. Nature is an amazing artist.







That night, I went on the sound and light tour of the canyons, after a cowboy style dutch oven dinner. It was really great food and wonderful to see all the stars. The tour gave me a good lesson on local people and geographic events.

Day 14: Moab, UT - Springdale, UT (350 miles)

This felt like my second longest day, as I visited too much and was on too many scenic routes twisting through mountain sides.. I started the morning checking out Arches at Dawn, and seeing the much photographed delicate arch. I then headed out to Capitol Reef National Park. I really like Capitol Reef. I stopped at a farm in the middle and had strawberry rhubarb pie, and just found the whole place fun.





The trees had turned yellow in Dixie National Park and I felt like I never left national land, as the Grand Staircase National Monument connected with Dixie and all the other sites I visited.



I headed down to Bryce Canyon, or more correctly amphitheater. Getting there took me up through Dixie National Forest (up to 9600 ft). I like the Hoodoos and seeing how nature can create amazing structures.



Then, I drove to Zion and there I fell in love with the grand rocks. I drove through the park and was just in awe. The sun was setting and it was a glorious place to arrive. As I checked into a place, and headed to dinner, the hills were red with the evening light and just gorgeous.



Day 15: Springdale, UT - Death Valley, CA (400 miles, via Hoover Dam)



In the morning, I took the bus up to the top of Zion, and walked along the canyon, seeing weeping rocks and high mountain swamps. I got off at several stops, walking to the Emerald Pools, and just sitting out enjoying the blue sky, sun, trees, and rocks. I felt peaceful and happy.



For the afternoon I headed down to the Hoover Dam. I have wanted to see this civil engineering feat for a while now, and was happy I got to see the dam, the power plan, and a man made wonder. I loved how the dam was done in an art deco style.





Leaving the Dam, I decided I wanted to see Death Valley, so I called for a reservation at the Furnace Creek Ranch and headed into the park. I arrive just as it was dark, which was perfect timing for the weather. I was able to swim in the hot spring pool, and marvel at the desert.

Day 16: Death Valley, CA - Millbrae, CA (450 miles, via Yosemite)



In the morning I headed out to Badwater, the lowest place in the Americas, and then I checked out the sand dunes. I liked Death Valley a lot, but before it got too hot, I winded my way out of it's mountains and headed north. Heading north on the high desert, I saw King's Canyon and Mt. Whitney to my left. I love big mountains.



I then headed west through Yosemite on Tioga Pass to home. Yosemite was like Zion, but in granite instead of sandstone. Another awesome place. It was after leaving the park that it decided to rain. Even with the rain, I was still able to make it home to Millbrae.





I had an awesome trip west. I am so happy I took the time to explore America and the National Parks of the Southwest. 4750 miles and 80 hours of driving later I feel so inspired by my country.

Many pictures from the trip: Trip Pictures
Pictures from the Wedding: Wedding Pictures

Tuesday, September 25, 2007

Kenya: Enjoying Africa



Day 0/1: Travel to Kenya

I left for Kenya on a Friday night, 8 days after I bought a ticket. I was excited for my first trip to Africa, although I had made very few plans. I just assumed that after 18 hours of travel (KLM through Amsterdam), when I arrived in Nairobi that a driver would meet me and taken to my hotel and all would work out well - and it did. I made it safely to Africa by Saturday night.

Day 2: Rest in Nairobi

I was staying at the Methodist Guest House in the Lavington suburb of Nairobi. Sunday was very much a day of rest, spent reading books, sitting by the pool and just adjusting to a new time zone. I have not had a day without worry in a long time, and I think I needed the break and chance to work on relaxing. This was the start of a real holiday.

Day 3: Lulu Works and Value Chain Analysis

Monday morning came and Jimmy picked Adina and I up at the hotel and took us two blocks to the Lulu Works site. I was there to meet up with the Belknap family (brother and sister in law of one of my old IBM co-workers Will) and Adina was there to help the Lulu team do a Value Chain Analysis and Mapping as part of a case study on NGO efforts in conflict areas. It was interesting to learn about the history and economics of working and aid in this region.


Lulu Team

After the day of work, Adina and I walked down the road to an Ethiopian restaurant for dinner. It was amazing food and a good chance to hang out Nairobi style.

Day 4: Nairobi Exploration

Tuesday was my chance for a grand adventure in Nairobi. I hired a driver for the day and set out to explore in the area. First stop was the Tuesday Maasai Market. I wandered through the market buying gifts for friends and family and just enjoying all of the people and colorful crafts around me.



After grabbing some pineapple from a vendor, we headed out to the Nairobi Game Park and the Animal Orphanage. Here I got to see some rescued animals and even pet a cheetah. I am not sure this is really allowed, but it was cool to do. It turns out their fur is not very soft but more bristly then I expected.



After this we headed out to the Giraffe Center. I loved this place, mostly because it was so cool to feed the giraffes, give them a hug, and have them lick you. They are such gentle creatures.



On the way back to Nairobi, we stopped by the Karen Blixen House (author of Out of Africa), for a look at early 1900's life in Kenya for the whites. Then it was back to Nairobi to meet up with the Lulu team for dinner.

Day 5: Nairobi to Nakuru

I spent the morning at the Lulu Works site, reading The Zanzibar Chest, a good book on the regional conflicts written by a Kenya born Brit. I know there has been conflict in the regional and I knew the colonists had reshaped the area, but being and reading about the region made me realize how unsettled the region is and just the shear amount of British influence - from clothes to schooling - the "West" is not American, but the impact of the British colonial system.

In the afternoon, Kristina and I drove the 100 miles to Nakuru. Now this should have taken 2 hours, but there were a number of diversions onto rutted dirt roads, so it took almost 4 hours. We went up a hill, and then down into the Rift Valley. It is absolutely beautiful. This is the Africa of the Lion Kin. Mountains, lakes, and trees I had never seen before. I loved it.



The sun was setting through the clouds, as it had been raining a lot. This rain was unseasonable and had led to flooding in Uganda. Luckily, Wednesday was the last day of rain during my trip and the country had a chance to dry out.



Around dark we arrived at the JB compound. It was good to arrive and sleep.

Day 6: Rest in Nakuru

It was another day of holiday, sitting outside with the dogs, reading and enjoying peace in Nakuru. The JB compound has 5 families and the JB Drilling group, described by one worker as “a private borehole water drilling company which operates three rigs in Kenya and 10 in Sudan. On site, I learn about drilling techniques and the art of diesel mechanics, and have learned how to drive a variety of trucks.”



During the morning I read A Sunday at the Pool in Kigali, by Gil Countemanche. It was an amazing, but depressing look at Rwanda.



Walking around the compound, one of the plants I really liked was the Euphorbia Candelabrum - it looks like a cactus on top of a tree trunk! So cool.



In the evening, Kristina and I went for a walk up to the Rifle Range, just outside of the Nakuru Game Park.

Day 7: Nakuru and Operation Sugar

On Friday, I watched some of the Lulu Works ladies work on a Lulu Life order. They had a formulation area in the compound.



One of the orders was for some Sugar Scrub, and they needed 70kg of Brown Sugar, so Kristina and I headed to town to find some Sugar. We visited several markets, before finding a distributor with course enough sugar for the scrub.




On the way back to the compound we passed by one of the drilling sites. It was great to see the actual drilling site and what it looks like to drill boreholes.



That night, we walked the dogs along the old Delemere land. When we were driving from Nairobi to Nakuru, we stopped at the Delemere dairy farm for Milk and Yogurt. Lord Delemere owns quite a lot of land in Kenya and is slowly selling it off to get cash.



It was nice to see all the trees in the evening light, although a bit sad to think all of this land will probably have home on it by the time I return to Kenya.



Day 8: Nakuru Game Park

Saturday morning we headed out to the Nakuru Game Park, one of the most visited sites in all of Kenya, with arguably the best animal viewing. I certainly thought all the animals were amazing.



There were baboons and many types of gazelles and elk.



This is also the site of a huge number of pink flamingos. There are literally thousands, although the number may be getting smaller, as we saw a hyena eating one.



There were also many buffalo sitting and walking around.



I enjoyed all of the Zebra, they seemed to be everywhere.



This park is know as a Rhino sanctuary, and we were lucky to see several with their young.



We stopped at the Makalia Waterfalls, which were overflowing with water given all the recent rains. Usually during this season, you can walk behind a trickle, but that was just not possible with the roar of water we saw.



After the waterfall, we had to change a tire. I didn't really expect to change my first tire in Africa, but it was a fun addition to the game park for me.



To me the best part of the park was the giraffes. They just wandered across the roads.



After the day in the game park, back on the compound there was a party for Jojo and George's birthday. There was endless grilled meat, drinks and dancing.



I hung out with two of the wives from the compound, along with a number of the younger crowd.



It was good for me to stay up late, and party local style. That night, once the moon set, there were also amazing equatorial stars. Given the elevation (around 6000 feet), it was cool in the evenings and hot during the day, reminding me of the bay area more then the tropics. But the stars were definitely tropical.

Day 8: Lulu at the Fair

Sunday morning we headed up to Greensteds School for the annual fair. Here we set up a booth to sell Lulu. From the South Sudanese Lulu Formulation workers, Gisma joined us to work on her English and sales skills.



I had a wonderful time exploring the fair and buying this amazing wooden stool for my house. At about 40 pounds, it was an interesting addition to my checked luggage.

That evening, Juma cooked up 40 hamburgers and we had a quite evening getting ready for the work week.

Day 9: Crafts then Return to Nairobi

In the morning, after packing, I wandered over to the crafts workshop to check out all the wood and leather work. I ended up spending the rest of my money on some just amazing crafts from the JB Art & Crafts shop.



I wandered through the compound one last time to enjoy the trees and plants.



My hosts in Kenya, Tom and Kristina Belknap were wonderful. I think staying with them gave me a feel for everyday life in Kenya, which was a great experience to have.



I took a cab to the airport and then boarded a flight to Amsterdam. My time in Africa was over.

Day 10: Home

I had a few hours in Amsterdam, before boarding the flight back to Boston. The trip was finally over.



Many more pictures of my time in Kenya can be found here: Kenya Adventure Pictures

Wednesday, September 12, 2007

Rest and Explore: NorthEast with Mel



After a week of hanging out with Amanda and Carter after their big move east, my friend Mel from UCLA Law School came out for a week. We had an adventure around the North East.

Friday: Out to the Berkshires

Friday morning we slept in and then after breakfast headed west to the Berkshires. After exiting the freeway we stopped off in Lee for lunch at the CakeWalk, a lovely little shop where you could see the cakes being baked.



We then drove to the Kripalu Center, where we checked into our weekend Yoga retreat. The Center was a lovely set of grounds called Shadowbrook, just next to Tanglewood (both of these were named by Nathanial Hawthorn). It was nice to just enjoy a place where you do not need to think, where 3 healthy meals a day are served, and there are just beautiful areas to enjoy.




The class was lead by Yoga Instructor Seane Corn and the Friday night yoga was more then I had done in a long time. After a healthy yoga workout, I was ready to sleep.

Saturday: Kirapalu

In the morning, after a light breakfast, it was a 3 hour yoga class, with a lot of discussion on how important it is to control what you let into your bodies, both emotionally and physically. I do not know when of have perspired more, so at least anything bad in me was leaving!

In the afternoon, we headed down to the lake, and while it was a bit overcast, it was nice to get wet and swim a bit. Luckily we made it back to our rooms before a major thunderstorm hit.



That night was a yoga chanting concert by Russill Paul - I was amazed at how much fun it was to chant along with him and the drums. Not quite the same as my trip earlier during the week to see Willie Nelson, but still a lot of fun.

Sunday: Heading North

Sunday morning started out with a 2 hour detox yoga workout. It made me feel good, even if I still cannot touch my toes. After lunch we checked out of the center and then drove north to the Adirondacks. What was amazing to me was that the fall colors already here and it is only the second week in September. I think it is going to be an early fall.



We stopped in Plattsburg for the night, I was tired of driving in the rain. We had a great meal at the local yummy Irish Pub and then rested.

Monday: Arrive in Canada

Monday morning we headed to Canada, and as we came to the boarder, I realized, I didn't bring my passport. I thought a license was enough, but it turns out I should have also had my birth certificate. Luckily, the boarder agent was nice and let us enter the country.



Once in Montreal, we dropped our stuff off at our hotel, Hotel Kutuma - a lovely place in the heart of the Plateau district. The man at the desk directed us to L'Express for lunch, and it was a great lunch. The best part was the dessert of Ile Flottante.



Next we headed down to Old Montreal and the Waterfront, exploring the different neighborhoods on the way. It was nice to see the old part of town.

Tuesday: Montreal Exploration



After a good nights sleep we headed out to Mount Royal Park. On the way, we stopped for an awesome breakfast at Chez Jose before heading to the top of the park for a view of all of Montreal. After the park, we walked down through McGill to the Beaux Arts Museum where there was a wonderful exhibit on Emily Carr. I loved many of the paintings and just learning the history of this Canadian artist and her interplay with the First Nations.



That night, Mel and I went to the Kent Nagano directed Montreal Symphony. They did Ravel's L'Enfant et les Sortilèges and Mahler's 1st. Both were very different and yet very good. I have heard the SFS do many of the Mahler symphonies, so it was good to hear one at another venue. After the symphony, we took a cab home in the rain, and went to the local bar for drinks. It was good to gossip with the locals, chat up the Parisian bartender and just hang out. Montreal is a really vibrant and fun city.



Wednesday: Home via Vermont

Wednesday we got up earlier then was good, given the late night, and then started driving home through the Canadian corn fields toward the US Boarder. The US boarder was super easy to cross, with no questions about my lack of passport.



We drove through Vermont. It is amazing to me how green and filled with trees our drive was, since California is just not so undeveloped. We stopped off at Dartmouth, first for me to see my college friend Amy, and then in Norwich to see Mel's friend Julia. Julia has a jewelry shop, and while we were there, I got to make a lovely turquoise and black necklace. It was cool to make my own necklace with the help of her and her kids. She used the shop as a place to train and work with local young mom's, helping them to develop work skills.



After out stop it was back to Boston. It was good to explore the area a bit more and also just rest up before my big trip to Kenya!

More Pictures can be found here: Trip Pictures